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Cosmax Gains MFDS Approval for Bakuchiol Wrinkle Stick

The Korean OEM secured approval via the rigorous "non-notified" path for its plant-based retinol alternative, planning global client offerings by this year.

By ABB Newsroom15 September 20262 min read
Photo: Tuğba ÖZTÜRK / Pexels

MFDS Approval for Bakuchiol Stick

Cosmax, a prominent South Korean company specializing in the development and manufacturing of cosmetics for other beauty brands, announced on Friday, September 11, that its bakuchiol-based wrinkle-treatment stick has received official approval from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS).

This significant regulatory clearance was obtained through the country's rigorous "non-notified" pathway. Unlike certain ingredients, such as adenosine and niacinamide, which are automatically recognized for their efficacy at specified concentrations, bakuchiol required Cosmax to independently substantiate the product's safety and effectiveness.

This involved a comprehensive, case-by-case review process, positioning Cosmax to supply its global client base with a validated option for gentler active formulations.

Bakuchiol as a Retinol Alternative

The core active ingredient in the newly approved product, bakuchiol, is derived from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, commonly known as babchi. It has garnered increasing interest as a plant-based substitute for retinol, a widely used vitamin A derivative.

Research indicates bakuchiol's capacity to stimulate collagen production and engage with several skin-aging pathways, similar to retinol. A key advantage cited is its ability to achieve these effects without the common side effects often associated with retinol, such as redness, flaking, and dryness.

Furthermore, bakuchiol does not heighten skin's sensitivity to sunlight, allowing for its use in daytime skincare routines, in contrast to retinol's typical nighttime application.

Innovative Stick Formulation Technology

Cosmax engineered a sophisticated "wax-mesh" structure to encapsulate a high concentration of bakuchiol within a solid stick format. This proprietary technology ensures the stick remains firm while still melting effectively upon contact with the skin, facilitating ingredient delivery.

The company highlighted the technical challenge in developing this formulation: traditional waxes used to solidify stick products often cause the product to drag unpleasantly on the skin and can impede the optimal absorption of active ingredients. Cosmax's innovation addresses this hurdle, providing an efficient and user-friendly delivery system for potent skincare actives.

Global Market Opportunities for Brands

Following this MFDS approval, Cosmax plans to broaden its portfolio of balm products beyond basic moisturizers, targeting specific concerns like wrinkles, skin firmness, and uneven tone. The company intends to make this innovative stick format available to its clients, both in Korea and internationally, potentially within the current year.

For beauty brands globally, this development offers a significant opportunity to incorporate a validated, gentler alternative to retinol into their product lines.

It opens new avenues for developing skincare solutions tailored for sensitive skin types or for consumers seeking effective active treatments that can be used during the day, enhancing product versatility in competitive Asian and global beauty markets.

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